Camellias are popular evergreen shrubs that are grown for their long flowering and glossy foliage. They are generally trouble free, easy to grow, and very rewarding. Their versatility for growing in pots, for hedging, and for including in mixed plantings makes them well sought after. Follow our tips to get the most from your Camellias In NZ.
Choosing a Camellia that works for you can be challenging given the sheer number that are available. Working through Sasanqua varieties, whether they are fragrant or not, how big the flowers are, and so on, can take considerable time. The Plant Company’s series of short articles aims to offer concise and easy to follow advice and recommendations so you can determine the variety for your needs.
Camellia 'Cinnamon Cindy' is a captivating evergreen shrub prized for its beautiful white flowers with a pink blush, and delightful fragrance. It's a popular choice for gardens in New Zealand, particularly in cooler regions, due to its autumn and winter flowering, and ease of care.
Here's a closer look at this Camellia:
Flowers:
Habit:
Benefits of Growing Camellia 'Cinnamon Cindy':
Versatility in the Garden:
Camellia 'Cinnamon Cindy' is a beautiful and easy-to-care-for plant. Its autumn and winter blooms, compact size, fragrant cinnamon scent, and delicate flowers make it a perfect choice for adding a touch of beauty and fragrance to your garden.
The list of Camellias that The Plant Company has worked on, propagated, marketed is extensive. Our database of Camellia varieties is listed below:
The Early Pearly camellia (Camellia 'Early Pearly') is a beautiful and popular evergreen shrub prized for its abundant white flowers in autumn and winter. It's a perfect choice for New Zealand gardens due to its cold tolerance and ease of care. Some of its key characteristics include:
Flowers:
Habit:
Benefits of Growing Early Pearly Camellia:
Versatility in the Garden:
Overall, Camellia 'Early Pearly' is a delightful and easy-to-care-for plant. Its winter flowers, compact size, and elegant white flowers make it a perfect choice for adding a touch of beauty and to your garden.
Camellia 'Fairy Blush' is a beautiful hybrid camellia widely grown in NZ and prized for its charming display of pink flowers and compact size. Some of its key characteristics include:
Flowers: - Flowers: Light apple blossom pink, fading to a paler pink in the centre. They are miniature, typically around 5 cm in diameter and single with prominent yellow stamens in the centre. They are also lightly fragrant and produced during late autumn and winter.
Habit: - A spreading, evergreen shrub that grows to around 1.5 metre tall and 1 metre wide with glossy leaves held densely.
Growing Conditions: - Prefers partial shade with moist, but well-drained, acidic soil. - Tolerant of cool and humid climates as well as moderate frost once established.
Uses: - This camellia's versatility makes it a popular choice for various landscaping purposes: - As a specimen plant - Can be grown in a pot. - Can be trimmed into a low hedge up to 1 m tall. - Combines well with other shrubs and perennials for a vibrant garden display.
Overall, Camellia 'Fairy Blush' is a delightful and low-maintenance addition to your garden. Its charming pink flowers, compact size, and long flowering make it a perfect choice for adding a touch of colour and fragrance throughout the cooler months.
Camellia 'Setsugekka' is a captivating Camellia cultivar prized for its abundant white flowers, glossy foliage, and ease of care. It's a popular choice for gardens in New Zealand, bringing a touch of elegance and fragrance to the autumn and winter landscape.
Key Characteristics: - Flowers: 'Setsugekka' produces masses of large (around 10 cm wide) white flowers with a hint of cream. The blooms are semi-double, featuring layers of wavy and fluted petals that create a delightful textural contrast with the glossy green foliage. - Fragrance: The flowers possess a subtle, pleasant fragrance. - Bloom Time: This Camellia sasanqua variety is a true autumn and winter flowerer. - Habit: 'Setsugekka' grows into a vigorous and elegant shrub. At maturity, it can reach around 3 metres tall and 2 metres wide but it is often kept smaller with trimming. - Foliage: The evergreen shrub features glossy, dark green leaves that provide a beautiful contrast to the white flowers.
Benefits of Growing Camellia 'Setsugekka': - Low Maintenance: This camellia is a relatively low-maintenance plant. It requires well-drained, slightly acidic soil and regular watering, especially during dry periods. Light pruning after flowering can help maintain its shape and encourage bushier growth. - Versatility: 'Setsugekka's' size and beautiful flowers make it a versatile addition to your garden. You can plant it as a: - Specimen plant - Hedge for privacy - Container plant - Cold Tolerance: Once established, 'Setsugekka' is tolerant of cool and humid climates.
Overall, Camellia 'Setsugekka' is a beautiful and rewarding plant to grow. Its elegant white flowers that contrast beautifully with the foliage, and ease of care make it a perfect choice for adding a touch of winter magic to your garden.
Camellia sinensis, also known as the tea plant or tea shrub, is an evergreen shrub native to East Asia, but today it's cultivated worldwide in tropical and subtropical regions. This wonderous plant is the source of all true tea, from black tea to delicate green teas.
Key Plant Characteristics:
Camellia sinensis thrives in warm, humid climates with well-drained, acidic soil. It prefers partial shade and consistent moisture. While Camellia sinensis is primarily known for tea production, it also has some ornamental value. The plant's glossy green leaves and fragrant white flowers make it an attractive addition to some gardens, particularly in areas with suitable climates.
The Plant Company has a number of Camellia varieties with small, white flowers. The most popular varieties are presented below. Each of these links has a wealth of information that will enable you to make fantastic selections.
The Plant Company has a wide range of Camella varieties and the choice depends on the what the plant is to be used for. The most common uses are: hedging, growing as standardised plants (i.e., a clean stem with a bushy top), planting in a pot, using as a specimen tree, or for planting around outdoor living area gardens such as courtyards and the like.
For hedging, the main varieties used are: Setsuguekka, Sparkling Burgundy, Transkoniensis, Early Pearly, and Paradise Blush. Each variety has different characteristics that make them spectacular in their own right.
Cinnamon Cindy and Transkoniensis are commonly used as standardised plants. Any variety can be standardised with a little bit of effort and patience. Cinnamon Cindy and Transkoniensis are also well suited for being maintained in a container along with the Nuccio varieties. Once a plant is put into a container it tends to remain smaller owing to confined root space. This is somewhat akin to how Bonsai works.
Both Mark Alan and Brushfield’s Yellow make for fantastic specimen trees. They can be clipped and shaped as desired, and produce large and bold flowers.
For outdoor living areas, The Plant Company recommends Night Rider and Paradise Blush. Both tend to have smaller flowers and foliage, and grow densely with fantastic aesthetics.
There are varieties of Camellia suited to almost any garden situation. Varieties differ in the size, shape, and colour of flowers they produce. Some varieties are faster growing than others and will reach different heights and sizes. The range of options is huge, so guiding a decision can be a challenge. However, The Plant Company has made this task simpler by selecting the best and most popular varieties available with a sufficient range that our customers can easily find what they want. The Plant Company generally find that our customers select a variety based on the both the flower colour and flower size. They will also consider whether it will make a nice hedge, whether it can be maintained in a container, and a few other factors before making a final decision. Be sure to check out each of our varieties and the detailed information that accompanies each of our Camellia varieties.
There are many red Camellia varieties available in NZ and The Plant Company certainly has the largest range of them. A list of our red flowering Camellias is presented below:
A standard Camellia is simply one where the branches have all been removed to a particular height which then leaves a clear trunk with foliage on top. We refer to such trees as “standardised” with their clean stem heights usually ranging from 80 cm to 1.5m. Standardised Camellia trees are great for pots, using as a pleached hedge, or simply adding into a mixed planting. If you are looking for a standard Camellia tree, you can explore our camellia varieties or contact us and we will advise on what is available.
Some of the best camellia varieties to grow in New Zealand include:
There are more than 250 known species of Camellias and thousands of varieties. The species most widely grown as ornamentals are the sasanqua, japonica, and reticulata. The first of these to flower every year in autumn and winter are the sasanquas. They are particularly hardy and make excellent hedging plants. Camellia Setsugekka and Camellia Early Pearly are popular examples of a sasanqua varieties.
The japonica Camellias are generally taller than sasanquas and have larger, and more leathery leaves. Their flowers are also larger, they typically flower from winter until late spring, but can be slower growing. Some examples of these offered by The Plant Company include Desire, Nuccio’s Cameo, Kramer’s Supreme, and Ave Maria.
The reticulata Camellias typically produce large and frilly flowers in early winter. Some examples of these offered by The Plant Company include Alfons and Camelot.
The Plant Company has many Camellia varieties and has put a lot of effort into the detail that accompanies each so our customers can get the best result. Be sure to check out our stunning range of Camellias.
Tea leaves are produced from the plant, Camellia sinensis. This species is quite different to the other varieties of Camellia grown for ornamental purposes, but it is still very aesthetic nonetheless. Camellia sinensis has a small leaf and a tiny, white flower. It is the new growing tips and fresh leaves that are picked and dried for tea. Once dry, they are then finely crushed to tea-leaf size. It is important to store the leaves in a dry and dark place to preserve the flavour and get that great cup of tea! Detailed information on how it grows and how to get the best results is provided in the link: Camellia sinensis.
Camellia plants do have issues and encounter diseases from time to time. Therefore, it is important to understand the underlying issue(s) and have the remedies to fix the problem. The Plant Company have produced this series of articles to help you in the quest for answers to address Camellia problems and diseases.
Camellia dieback is a common disease that causes limbs to die for no apparent reason. A sign of the disease is foliage and stems that start to yellow or blacken, with the leaves eventually falling. The branch then completely dies. Some reports suggest that spraying with a fungicide will fix the issue. Quite frankly this won’t do anything as the disease is caused by a root rot pathogen that is difficult to control. Using high rates of Wetcit or Transformer has been reported to help address this problem.
Affected branches should be removed, burnt (or disposed of), and the secateurs or pruning saw disinfected afterwards. The root disease is typically associated with over-watering or poor drainage. These issues must be addressed for the plant to stand any chance of recovering. Unfortunately, severe root disease can cause death of the entire plant and if it has progressed too far, the best solution would be removing the entire plant. This drastic measure will also help stop it spreading to other plants.
Camellia flowers with brown splotches can be caused by Petal Blight. The disease is spread by moisture droplets and is more cosmetic than anything serious. It is easily controlled with a general fungicide and tends to be more prevalent in humid environments. Increasing the airflow around plants is one easy method to address the issue.
Camellia flowers with brown splotches can be caused by Petal Blight, frost, or simply due to the flowers naturally aging. Petal Blight is a disease that is spread by moisture droplets and is more cosmetic than anything serious. It is easily controlled with a general fungicide and tends to be more prevalent in humid environments. Increasing the airflow around plants is one easy method to address the issue. A severe frost will cause petals to brown and they will be shed quickly. Flowers will also naturally shed as they age. If you find the browned blooms unsightly they can be removed by either cutting them off with secateurs or pulling them off.
Scale Insects, Mites, Whitefly, and Aphids are common pests for Camellias but are both easily controlled. Generally, they are found on the underside of the leaves and spread to the stems and upper surfaces once population levels increase. The tell-tale signs of Scale Insect are black-sooty mould, yellow mottling on the leaves, and a white-powdery appearance. The powdery appearance is often the insect itself. For Mites and Whitefly, we often see a bronzing of the foliage and a dust like appearance on the underside of the leaves. Aphids will usually congregate on the new foliage and cause plant growth to slow and a yellowing of the shoots. Their secretions can cause sooty mould to develop and this may also attract ants.
If levels of Mites, Whitefly, or Aphids are high and of concern, then a general insecticide can be used to control them. This is usually applied in spring before populations get too out of hand but repeated applications might be necessary. In the case of Scale Insect, a spraying oil will be needed. Please be sure to read the label and wear appropriate personal protection equipment when using agrichemicals.
Sunburn can happen from time to time and will be worst if plants are lacking water. They can also be burnt if the weather has been cool and overcast for a few days, then suddenly turns hot with bright light. The result is bronzed or discoloured leaves where the leaf pigments have been damaged. There are no easy solutions here aside from making sure plants are conditioned to bright light conditions before planting. That is, don’t take a plant grown in moderate shade and put it straight into a mid-summer environment without giving it some short exposure to bright light first. Also make sure plants are not stressed with water and the like during those hot and bright days as that can also make them more vulnerable.
If you are worried about sunburn, you can always choose a partial shade position for your plant. Camellias do not need to grow in full sun but will grow well with indirect light or only a few hours of sun per day.
Sooty Mould is a common fungal issue that affects many types of plants. It is the result of honey dew which is secreted from insect pests, which is fed upon by a black fungus. The fungus itself doesn’t feed on the plant but does make the plant unsightly. Severe outbreaks can result in unhealthy and dying leaves as the leaves become starved of light.
A Camellia with black leaves almost certainly has an insect problem. A variety of insects, such as aphids, whitefly, or scale, are likely to be feeding on the leaves and stems. If levels of Mites, Whitefly, or Aphids are high, and of concern, then a general insecticide can be used to control them. This is usually applied in spring before populations get too out of hand but repeated applications might be necessary. In the case of Scale Insect, a spraying oil may be needed. Please be sure to read the label and wear appropriate personal protection equipment when using agrichemicals.
Once the insects have been killed, the sooty mould will eventually go. However, it can be washed off with generous amounts of water if you want to speed up the process.
Leaf browning generally results from poor drainage, incorrect soil pH, chemical misadventure, frost, wind, nutrient deficiency, or excessive feeding. A sign of poor drainage is often seen in the older leaves which exhibit scorching at the tips. Such scorching progresses into the leaf and is almost certainly due to poor drainage (or overwatering). Other causes include:
Flower buds can drop in some years due to natural events such as frost or drought. They can also drop due to poor drainage or from too much or too little feeding. In each case, the issue is likely to be seasonal only and is easily corrected if you can identify which of these was the likely cause.
Misadventure can sometimes occur when lawn sprays are applied too close to plants. The chemicals can be taken up by the roots of plants which can cause leaf yellowing. In most instances the plant will grow through this temporary issue. However, severe cases of this can result in the death of the plant.
Nutrient deficiencies can show up as leaf yellowing. If you have ruled out all other possible causes and you know the plant has not been fed for some time you might want to consider feeding it. Use a liquid feed to get quick results or fertiliser for acid loving plants to address this issue. For Camellias grown in a container, use the liquid feed and container plant fertiliser to correct any issues.
When the leaf tips on Camellias die back with a black line, it is caused by one of two things usually. The most common is poor drainage, over-watering, or both. Fixing these issues will see the plants recover reasonably quickly. The article, Remedies For A Poorly Drained Soil can offer solutions.
The other cause of leaf tip death is from lime application. This causes a slow decline in the plants and eventual death. If you have undertaken this activity in the past year and seeing this result, the only solution is to add soil acidifying fertiliser and hope that it’s not too late.
Leaf yellowing can result from pest and disease issues (refer relevant sections for each) or more likely, it will be due to poor drainage, too much shade, lime having been applied, incorrect pH, a nutrient deficiency, or misadventure. A sign of poor drainage can often be seen in the older leaves. If the leaves have a scorched tip that is progressing into the leaf. This is almost certainly a poor drainage (or overwatering) issue. High levels of shade will see the leaves develop yellow tones and slowly drop. If the more shaded part of the plant is showing higher levels of yellowing, then this is a good indicator. Please note that the internal leaves of the plant will often yellow and die as they are shaded by the outer leaves. This is normal for larger plants.
Adding lime to a plant can cause a sudden decline in plant performance which starts with leaf scorching of the younger leaves and dieback of the tips. Even if no lime was added, the pH could still be too alkaline for the plant to grow well which is common on lime stone soils. Please refer to section on the correct pH for Camellias for more information.
Nutrient deficiencies can show up as leaf yellowing. If you have ruled out all other possible causes and you know the plant has not been fed for some time you might want to consider feeding it. Use a liquid feed to get quick results or our fertiliser for acid loving plants to address this issue. For Camellias grown in a container use the liquid feed and container plant fertiliser.
Misadventure can sometimes occur when lawn sprays are applied too close to plants. The chemicals can be taken up by the roots of plants which can cause leaf yellowing. In most instances the plant will grow through this temporary issue. However, severe cases of this, along with any of the other issues highlighted in this article can result in the death of the plant.
There can be many reasons why a Camellia looks sick or is dying and it is often an iterative process to determine why. The most common reasons are presented below and organised from most likely to least likely based on The Plant Company's experience.
If the new growth of your Camellia has been killed or damaged by frost, prune the plant back to healthy wood above a bud using secateurs after the risk of frost has passed. If a plant has been aggressively pruned in a cold climate and an unseasonal frost is forecast, a blanket or frost cloth can be used to afford protection. If the damage is too severe it might be better to replace the plant and learn from the mistake.
There is always a reason why a plant dies and most often it is through human error. We provide a list below of possible causes which identifies 95% of the causes!
There is always a reason why a plant dies and a newly planted Camellia can die because of any number of possibilities:
In summary, it is most often human error that causes a newly planted to die. Working through our list covers 99% of the causes!
This series of articles answers many of the frequently asked questions about Camellias, such as how fast they grow, their hardiness, and more!
Camellias prefer a semi-shaded spot with well-drained soil. They can be grown in full sun, but they will need to be watered more frequently. Avoid planting camellias in windy areas, as this can damage their flowers and break branches.
It is important to note that the ideal amount of sun or shade for a camellia will vary depending on the climate and the variety of camellia. For example, sasanqua camellias are more tolerant of heat and sun than japonica camellias. If you are unsure how much sun or shade to give your camellia, it is best to err on the side of caution and plant it in semi-shade.
Camellias are generally quick growing and establish rapidly. The speed at which they grow depends on the variety, the size and health of the plant purchased, and the growing conditions. All things being equal, an upright growing variety that is 60 cm tall and growing in a 2.5L container should reach 1 m tall after the first year with good growing conditions. Some varieties will be get there sooner but that really depends on how good the growing conditions are. Be sure to check out The Plant Company’s range and the detailed information that accompanies each of our Camellia varieties.
Most Camellias will eventually reach between 2 m and 6 m tall (depending on the variety) if they are neither trimmed nor contained. The Plant Company has put a lot of effort into determining how big each variety will grow in an unrestricted growing environment. Far too often The Plant Company see people planting a garden too densely and then having to spend a lot of time trimming or removing plants later. This is something we want our customers to avoid, and we therefore provide size information for each variety listed so the planning can be right from the start. Be sure to check out our range and the detailed information that accompanies each of our Camellia varieties.
Camellias generally tolerate frost and will cope with short spells of freezing during winter provided they have been conditioned to it. A plant just purchased may not have been conditioned to the environment and so is likely to require frost protection during its first year of growing. Frost cloth is a great option for achieving suitable protection. The Plant Company recommends lush growing plants that come from other regions are not planted out in harsh frost areas until the risk of frost has passed.
New shoots tend to be more prone to frost damage. For this reason, The Plant Company does not recommend fertiliser or any kind be applied to plants between mid-autumn and late-winter.
Camellia flowers come in shades of white, pink, red, and yellow. Bright yellow blooms are rare but lighter shades that are more cream in colour are common such as Brushfield's Yellow and Jury's Yellow.
The flowers of the different Camellia varieties vary in size and shape, and there are many different options available that have single, semi-double, or fully double flowers. Some varieties produce scented blooms but for the most part the flowers are non-scented or only very lightly scented. The Plant Company has a lot of Camellia varieties available to purchase and detail about the flowers is provided for each variety.
Some of the key differences between Camellia sasanqua and Camellia japonica include:
Flowering Time: - Flowering time is the key difference. Sasanqua camellias flower in autumn and winter while Camellia japonica flowers during late winter and early spring.
Flower Size and Form: - Camellia sasanqua generally has smaller flowers (around 5-7 cm) compared to japonica. The blooms are typically single or semi-double, with a more delicate and open appearance. Camellia japonica usually has larger flowers that can be single, semi-double, or fully double. They offer a more formal and opulent look.
Leaf Size: - Camellia sasanqua has smaller and less glossy leaves compared to japonica.
Sun Preference: - Camellia sasanqua can tolerate more sun than Japonica with some varieties even thriving in full sun. Camellia japonica generally prefers partial shade and can struggle in full sun, particularly in hot climates.
Growth Habit: - Camellia sasanqua typically has a more upright or spreading growth habit. Camellia japonica typically grows into a larger shrub or small tree with a more upright or rounded form.
Overall: - Camellia sasanqua is ideal for autumn and winter flowering, smaller gardens, and tolerates some sun exposure. - Camellia japonica is perfect for late winter and early spring flowers, larger gardens with some shade, and offers a more formal look.
The fastest growing camellias in New Zealand are the sasanqua varieties. These typically start flowering in autumn and continue throughout the winter months.
Here are some of the fastest growing sasanqua Camellias:
Sasanqua camellias are generally tolerant of a wide range of conditions, but they will prefer a semi-shaded spot with well-drained soil.
Camellias are among the oldest flowering plants in the world. Fossil records indicate that camellias existed over 50 million years ago, during the Eocene epoch. This makes them one of the oldest flowering plant lineages still in existence. Camellias have survived through several periods of climate change and extinction, making them a testament to their resilience and adaptability.
The oldest living camellia plant is estimated to be over 1,000 years old. It is located in China's Panlong Monastery and is still producing flowers annually. This remarkable longevity is a testament to the camellia's ability to thrive in various environments and withstand the test of time.
Camellia flowers are prized for their beauty, fragrance, and rich symbolism. Here are some of the things that make camellias special:
In summary, camellia flowers are special because of their captivating beauty, enchanting fragrance, rich symbolism, diverse varieties, resilient nature, and long-standing historical significance. They have captured the hearts and imaginations of people around the world for centuries, and continue to be treasured as symbols of elegance, refinement, and enduring beauty.
Most Camellias varieties flower through spring and again in early autumn. That said, there are varieties that will flower from late winter until early summer only and sporadically at other times of the year. Other varieties will flower continuously from spring until autumn. The Plant Company provides great detail about each variety and when it will flower so the right variety can be selected for your situation. Be sure to check out our range and the detailed information that accompanies each of our Camellia varieties.
The Plant Company also need to highlight that Camellias typically flower from branches that are at least one-year old. In other words, new growth will not produce flowers until the following year for most varieties. Please keep this in mind when trimming plants!
Camellias are native to eastern and southern Asia, including China, Japan, Korea, India, and Indonesia. They are found in tropical and subtropical regions, typically in forests or on hillsides. Camellias are evergreen shrubs or small trees with glossy, leathery leaves. They produce beautiful, fragrant flowers in a variety of colors, including red, pink, white, and yellow.
Camellia propagation is a relatively straightforward process when you have the right advice. They are easily rooted, and our articles give you the best chance of doing this successfully and efficiently.
Camellias are easily propagated from stem cuttings. Semi-hardwood cuttings or hardwood cuttings are usually taken from autumn until mid-spring. A stem about 10 cm long is trimmed into a cutting using secateurs with 2-3 leaves at the top and just below a node. Any flower buds are removed and a nick is taken from the base of the cutting to expose more tissue. The cutting is dipped in rooting hormone for 5-10 seconds and then inserted into propagation growing media. The tray of cuttings is placed under mist with bottom heat also applied. The cuttings will have taken root inside of eight weeks as a general rule. That said, hardwood cuttings can take a little longer.
Camellia pruning takes some thought and planning to ensure you get what you are after. Factors such as the spacing, desired height, and variety are all important considerations. The Plant Company have produced this series of articles to provide advice for pruning Camellias so you can manicure your plants with confidence and success.
Camellias are typically not pruned at all but rather trimmed to contain and shape the plant. Where trimming is required, this is best done after the main flush of flowering. For some varieties this is summer whereas for others it is autumn. In some instances, there is no end to flowering as some varieties which flower sporadically even after the main flush. In such cases it is best to just trim after the main flush in spring. Trimming at these times will result in more and better flowers as the plant has not wasted a lot of effort producing flower buds that would otherwise be cut off with later trimming.
When plants are trimmed using secateurs, any dead or diseased stems should be removed as a first priority. Such stems should be cut back flush against the stem they originate from. Branches can now be thinned out in a similar manner to give a more open and visually balanced plant. Normally the plant is trimmed to the desired shape and size first before considering whether it needs to be opened up or not. This choice to “open” up a plant is entirely about the look you are wanting to achieve rather than any necessity.
It is worth understanding that flowers are produced off stems from the previous seasons’ growth. Therefore, if you cut off all the new growth, you will only see flowers produced on the older stems the next season. For this reason, there is always a compromise between trimming and flowering. The Plant Company advises that plants should be trimmed to shape and size as the first priority as they grow quickly and will be flowering fully before you know it.
Almost all Camellias will sprout new shoots when cut right back. Even old plants that are now small trees can be cut back to a stump to shoot away again. However, this relies on the plant having heathy stems at the outset. If the stumps have any dead wood, they may not shoot or may only shoot off one side. Similarly, stumps that still have actively growing foliage may not sprout unless all the foliage connected to that stem is completely removed.
Severe pruning using a pruning saw or chainsaw is best undertaken any time from late autumn until early spring. Multiple shoots will generally grow from each stump which can be thinned back during summer to one or the number desired. The plant will not produce flowers on the new shoots until the following year. Please note: Camellia reticulata varieties do not respond well to such aggressive trimming and may not grow back. Also note that Camellias grown in heavy shade environments may also struggle to re-establish even if they sprout new shoots.
Camellias make beautiful hedges and are commonly used for this purpose. The first challenge is to choose the right variety as they do differ in how high and quickly they will grow. Check out our range and the detailed information that accompanies each of our Camellia varieties to make sure you get the right one! Small-leafed varieties such as Cinnamon Cindy and Transnokoensis make for great hedges and their small flowers gives them a balanced look. Setsugekka has slightly larger flowers but is also very popular.
Plants are usually spaced 50 cm apart for hedging. They can be planted up to 30 cm apart if a dense hedge is required quickly. They will fill in, even if planted at 75 cm apart, though the density of the foliage at the base of the plants can start to be reduced at the wider spacing. Remember that the number of plants for a hedge 5 m long and spaced 50 cm apart is 11 (not 10) as you need one at both the start and end.
If a narrow and dense hedge is required, the trimming will need to start early. That is, start clipping the sides and top with secateurs well before it reaches the desired height and width. Each time a stem is cut, the buds on the remaining stem will sprout. Each stem will now end up with two or more shoots growing from it. Repeatedly doing this forces the plant to keep branching and therefore makes the plant more dense.
Once the hedge is getting close to the desired width, the trimming regime can move to an annual basis and this is usually down after flowering. It can be trimmed as lightly or aggressively as you desire. Almost all Camellia varieties will sprout from stumps. However, stumps that still have actively growing foliage may not sprout unless all the foliage connected to that stem is removed.
Creating a Camellia topiary standard requires both patience and a straight, single-stemmed plant to start off with. The plant is staked to grow with a straight trunk to just past the mid-height of the topiary (i.e., ball). All the side branches are trimmed off to about 10 cm above the mid-point of the topiary. The top of the plant is cut off just above the mid-point of the ball to encourage sprouting just below the cut. As the new stems grow, they are routinely “tipped” (i.e., the top bud is pinched out) to encourage more shoots. All the time, the ball is progressively shaped until the desired size is achieved. This process can take two years (or more) to complete. If all this seems too hard or you don’t have the patience, contact us and we can generally supply your needs.
Some of the best camellia varieties for hedges in New Zealand include:
When choosing a camellia variety for a hedge, it is important to consider the following factors:
Once you have chosen a variety, be sure to plant your camellias in a well-drained location and water them regularly.
After the main flush of flowering is the best time to prune Camellias in NZ. For some varieties this is summer whereas for others it is autumn. In some instances, there is no end to flowering as some varieties which flower sporadically even after the main flush. For such varieties it is best to just trim after the main flush in spring.
Some reports suggest that winter is the best time to trim Camellias but this is simply not accurate. Yes, the plants can be pruned at this time, but The Plant Company do not recommend it as any trimming is better undertaken soon after flowering so the plant is not producing flower buds unnecessarily. Pruning at the correct time will result in more and better flowers on your plants. A good pair of secateurs is all you need to complete this task.
Watering Camellia plants correctly is an important part of growing amazing shrubs. Importantly, making sure they get enough without being over-watered is paramount.
Camellias are lush plants and this foliage requires good soil moisture during dry periods to stay fresh and keep growing actively. The Plant Company advises generous watering daily or every second day during summer. If the flowers or young stems start to droop, you need to water immediately as this is a sign of severe moisture stress and is not normal. Plants should be watered thoroughly in the morning or in the evening for water conservation purposes. During cooler times of the year watering will usually only be required during dry periods or for a short period after planting.
Over-watering can be a problem with most plants including Camellias. Too much and the plants will develop root rot issues and slowly deteriorate. The first tell-tale sign of over-watering is a yellowing of the leaves. If the plants are on a well-drained site or growing in well-drained growing media this should rarely be an issue. Clay soils tend to be poorly drained and can result in the equivalent of over-watering. For this reason, The Plant Company advise against planting Camellias on such soils unless drainage issues are addressed.
Planting Camelias and getting it to grow well is generally easy when you get a few of the basics right. This involves planting them in the right soil type, choosing the most ideal planting position, selecting the best variety, and ensuring the plants have the essentials to thrive. The Plant Company has the right advice to give you the greatest chance of success when growing a Camellia.
Camellias are very easy to grow, but you need to have the basics right. Choose a sunny spot with good drainage. The soil should be well prepared with organic matter added from either compost or sheep pellets mixed in. Feeding your plants in spring with fertiliser for acid loving plants will replenish nutrients and keep them fed for 12 months. Trim your Camellias after flowering in late summer to keep them shapely or to contain growth. They should also be watered regularly during dry periods to keep them flourishing. You might want to consider staking it to give it a bit of extra support and use tree ties for secure and appropriate holding. This will help retain the shape and form.
Transplant shock is a common issue when moving Camellias and can occur when planting a potted Camellia. Transplant shock is the stress a plant experiences when its roots are disturbed during the process of moving it or taking it from its growing container. This disruption hinders the plant's ability to absorb water and nutrients through the roots. In general, the bigger the plant, the more likely it is to suffer from transplant shock as more root volume is being disturbed. Symptoms of transplant shock include:
Minimising transplant shock is relatively easy:
By following these guidelines, you can significantly improve your Camellia's chances of successfully recovering from transplant shock.
Camellias will grow in coastal areas but they should not be exposed to direct sea spray. Additionally, saline soils will prove detrimental to plants and can result in their death. On this basis, planting some 50 m away from the coastline will generally be okay. However, they will require shelter and regular watering while they are establishing. Please also note that they are likely to grow more densely in this environment but will still flower profusely. If there is a chance of wind, you might want to consider staking it to give it a bit of extra support and use tree ties for secure and appropriate holding.
Yes, is the short answer. Some articles say they should only be planted in partial shade conditions which just isn’t true. In full sun, plants tend to be more compact and will produce amazing flowers. That said, some varieties can be sensitive to sun burn which can cause variation in the leaf colourings and a bronzing of the leaves. In New Zealand this is rarely a significant issue. However, plants can be damaged if they are moved from a shaded area to a full sun position without any conditioning to the brighter light levels. A tell-tale sign here is bleaching or browning of the upper and exterior leaves.
The answer to this questions depends on how much shade. As shade levels increase, Camellias tend to become “leggy” and flowering is often reduced. In full sun they tend to be much more compact in their growth. So yes, they will grow in partial shaded conditions such as down the side of a house or under dappled light from a tree, but growth and flowering performance is likely to be less than if they were grown in better light. Please note that in partially shaded environments the central leaves on the plant will often yellow and fall which can result in a plant that has mostly exterior foliage only.
Camellias can be grown in pots and they look amazing when managed appropriately. Choose a pot that is no more than twice the size of what the Camellia is currently growing in and that has plenty of drainage holes in the bottom. Fill the bottom of the pot to about 1/3 of the way up with potting mix. Do not use soil or compost when growing plants in a container and do not add fertiliser. The Plant Company potting mix has all the nutrients required to sustain the plant for the next 12 months.
When potting up, assess the roots before progressing. If they are not all bound up, and haven’t been growing in a circle within their original container, place the plant in the new pot without removing any of the growing media or cutting the roots. You can tease them apart if you want but this is not essential. If, however, the roots have been circling the inside of the pot or they look root bound, simply cut through those outer roots on either side. You don’t need to be any more aggressive than this or remove any of the growing media. You can try and tease the roots apart, but this generally breaks them which is why we cut them. Add more potting mix and firm this around the plant using gentle pressure, then water well. They should be watered twice a week during hot weather and weekly or fortnightly during cooler periods.
You might want to consider staking it to give it a bit of extra support and use tree ties for secure and appropriate holding. This will help retain the shape and form.
To plant a Camellia in a garden, firstly choose a full sun position with good drainage and moderate shelter for your [Camellia plant]. The hole should be dug to at least 50-75% deeper and wider than the container the plant is currently growing in. A good planting spade makes this job a lot easier. The Plant Company recommends incorporating compost or sheep pellets into the soil to provide additional organic material, but this is not essential. Do not put fertiliser in the bottom of the hole, rather spread that on the soil surface after planting, and preferably do this when the plant is actively growing in spring.
Remove the plant from the container it is growing in by either pulling it free or by cutting the bag. We recommend cutting the bag, especially for larger grade plants, to minimise any chance of damaging the roots. Once out, you need to assess the roots before progressing. If they are not all bound up, and haven’t been growing in a circle within the container, place the plant in the hole without removing any of the growing media or cutting the roots. You can tease them apart if you want but this is not essential. If, however, the roots have been circling the inside of the pot or they look totally root bound, simply cut through those very outer roots on either side. You don’t need to be any more aggressive than this or remove any of the growing media. You can try and tease the roots apart, but this generally breaks them which is why we cut them. NB: cutting roots is not essential, even if the plant is root-bound as explained in our article, Managing Rootbound Plants.
Now place the plant in the hole and make sure it is level with the soil surface before filling in around it. If it is sitting above the soil surface, dig more out. If it is below, put in more soil and retest the level. Once the plant is set level with the soil surface, add more soil gradually and firm it around the plant using gentle pressure from your fingers as you go. Scatter fertiliser for acid loving plants across the soil surface after planting and the give the plant a good watering. If the plant is taller than 30 cm you might want to consider staking it to give it a bit of extra support and use tree ties for secure and appropriate holding.
Only potting mix should be used when plants are grown in a container. Often people will try and cut corners and use soil or mixes that contain both soil and potting mix which generally achieves poor results. The same applies to when plants are potted up with compost as it holds too much moisture. Soil also contains weeds and tends to become compacted in a container, hence why it is not used for plants grown in a container. The Plant Company supplies nursery grade potting media which is pre-loaded with the correct amounts of fertiliser and micro-nutrients to keep the plant sustained with nutrition and actively growing for the next 12 months. After 12-months, add fertiliser tablets to the top of the container to keep the plant fed and healthy.
Soil rich in fertility and organic matter that is well-drained and slightly acidic will produce amazing plants. The soil should be well prepared with either compost or sheep pellets mixed in at planting or spread on the soil surface after planting. It is important that the soil being planted into won’t restrict root growth and for this reason, clay soils are generally not well suited to Camellias. Clay soils also tend to be very wet which will negatively impact the performance of the plant. Lime based soils are also not suitable as the alkalinity will slowly kill the plant. That said, most soils are generally suited to growing Camellias. Using some fertiliser for acid loving plants at planting is highly recommended.
On lighter soils (sandy or pumice soils) they will need more watering regularly during dry periods to keep them flourishing. Feeding your plants in spring with The Plant Company fertiliser for acid loving plants will replenish nutrients and keep them fed for 12 months.
The easiest camellia to grow in New Zealand is the sasanqua camellia. Sasanqua camellias are more tolerant of heat and sun than other camellia varieties, and they are also less susceptible to pests and diseases. Sasanqua camellias are also relatively fast-growing, and they can start blooming in their first year after planting. Some popular sasanqua camellias to grow in New Zealand include: • Camellia 'Plantation Pink' • Camellia 'Yuletide' • Camellia 'Buttons 'n Bows' • Camellia 'Gwenneth Morey'
The soil pH refers to how acid of alkaline the soil is. Camellias prefer a soil pH within the range of 5.8 to 6.5 which means they like an acidic soil. As the pH of the soil moves away from this optimum range, the nutrients the plant is taking up (or not taking up) through the roots changes. If the shift in pH is too far, this can result in deficiencies of some nutrients and toxic levels of others. In either case this can cause the plant to become sick or even die a slow death.
The best way to know whether the pH is correct for your plant is to do a test. The Plant Company has pH test kits available that are easy to use and only take a few minutes to get a result. Preferably this test should be completed before planting so any pH issues can be corrected without risking the plant. A pH less 5.6 should have a sparing amounts of dolomite lime applied along with fertiliser for acid loving plants. A pH above 6.7 should have small amounts of soil acidifying fertiliser along with fertiliser for acid loving plants applied. In both instances the fertiliser should be thoroughly mixed into the soil before planting. A retest of the soil pH should be undertaken after four weeks and small adjustments made again. If the pH is in the optimum range, just use fertiliser for acid loving plants only.
Placing mulch around Camellias helps keep the soil moist and significantly reduces weeds. The Plant Company recommends an organic mulch is used as this breaks down over time to provide nutrients and improves the soil. It is also better for the environment than the plastic based alternatives. Whatever type of mulch is used, it needs to be free draining so the soil can “breathe” and allow water to penetrate quickly and easily. Heavy rates of lawn clippings are therefore not a good option as they hold too much moisture. The Plant Company has two very good options for mulch. The first is coco fibre matting which is made from the husks of coconuts. It breaks down to become part of the soil within two years. The second is the black plastic matting which will last 20 years or more. In both instances The Plant Company recommend stones, bark chip, or other similar products be spread over top of the mulch for aesthetic purposes.
Compost is not considered an effective mulch as weeds germinate easily and it is only short lasting. It is, however, a very good method of adding organic matter to the soil and should be applied before the mulch is put down.
Camellias can be planted at any time of the year but autumn through until spring is the generally considered the safest time for plant survival. It is important that the soil is neither too dry nor waterlogged when plants are put in as this can be detrimental. If the soil is dry, The Plant Company recommends that it is thoroughly moistened with a hose before planting. The same applies to planting during hot conditions such as during summer. As long as plants are kept watered during summer they can be safely planted at this time and will grow well. NB: the less the roots are disturbed and the more media that remains on the roots at planting, the better will be the chances of establishing an amazing plant.
Camellias can be planted at any time of the year but autumn through until spring is the generally considered the safest time for plant survival. It is important that the soil is neither too dry nor waterlogged when plants are put in as this can be detrimental. If the soil is dry, The Plant Company recommends that it is thoroughly moistened with a hose before planting. The same applies to planting during hot conditions such as during summer. As long as plants are kept watered during summer they can be safely planted at this time and will grow well. NB: the less the roots are disturbed and the more media that remains on the roots at planting, the better will be the chances of establishing an amazing plant.
A full sun or partial shade position with good drainage is essential for getting the best results with Camellias. On poorly drained sites, or with over-watering, they tend to become stunted and sickly looking due to the roots struggling to breathe. As shade levels increase, Camellias tend to become spindly and flowering is often reduced. In full sun positions they tend to grow more compactly but the leaves can take on a somewhat leathery appearance with some varieties. As a general rule they will grow well as long as they get good levels of natural light so planting down the side of a house or the like is fine. However, planting beneath trees may need to be reconsidered. The position should also be moderately sheltered so branches are not broken by wind and this will help produce a better shaped plant overall. If there is a chance of wind, you might want to consider staking it to give it a bit of extra support and use tree ties for secure and appropriate holding.
Camellias are tolerant of moderate to heavy frost, but they won’t tolerate snow or prolonged freezing. Humidity levels are not particularly important but high humidity environments can favour pest and diseases unfortunately. Wherever they are grown, make sure that they will not dry out during summer and they have plenty of room to expand.
Camellia tree care is all about knowing what to do in each season. Even though they are low maintenance plants, they will benefit from the attention you provide.
Winter is the perfect time for mulching around your plants. Organic matter such as compost or sheep pellets should be spread liberally around the plants and then overlaid with a mulch. The Plant Company has two very good options for mulch. The first is coco fibre matting which is made from the husks of coconuts. It breaks down to become part of the soil within two years. The second is the black plastic matting which will last 20 years or more. In both instances The Plant Company recommend stones, bark chip, or other similar products be spread over top of the mulch for aesthetic purposes. The Plant Company do not recommend adding fertiliser during winter as this is better applied in spring so less is wasted. However, adding organic matter is quite okay.
Spring is the perfect time for fertilising the plants as they start to bounce into life and flower buds begin to open. The Plant Company has fertilisers which have been specially blended for different plants and in this instance, our fertiliser for acid loving plants will give them the correct boost and keep them fed for 12-months. A suitable alternative is organic fertiliser which will also keep them well fed but it will require a secondary application in autumn.
Summer is when the plants need regular watering and this should be undertaken daily on the hottest days. Plants that are establishing need particular attention as their root system will not have penetrated deep enough to secure consistent moisture yet. Summer is also the season when varieties that have finished flowering should be trimmed if this is required. Please refer to our section on pruning and trimming for details on how to do this correctly.
Caring for Camellia trees in autumn is all about finishing any trimming and keeping the plants healthy. Foliar feeding using a liquid fertiliser can be undertaken during spring, summer, and autumn if you have time but this is not essential if solid fertiliser and/or good amounts of organic matter have already been applied. If you think the plants need an extra boost or have some yellowing, however, a liquid fertiliser won’t hurt.
Check your Camellia trees for any pest or disease issues during spring, summer, and autumn. If anything is looking a little bit unusual at any time of year, refer to our section on dealing with issues for a solution.
These short articles provide some insight into how you might use Camellia plants in different situations and what you might pair them with.
Camellias owe their popularity to not just their aesthetics, but also to their versatility. They are commonly planted as hedges, specimens, and included in mixed plantings where their beautiful flowers and foliage can be enjoyed. They are well suited to planting around living areas and barbecue areas where they provide both a fresh and colourful display. The smaller flowering types are often used around pool areas while the smaller leaved varieties are often used for hedging.
Maintaining plants in a pot or growing them to border an entrance is also becoming increasingly common. The glossy foliage is fantastic for providing a lush appeal to a planting with a hint of tropical flair. They can be included in most garden styles with ease and make for a wonderful addition. Explore our range of Camellia varieties to find the ones(s) that will fill your design needs!
As Camellias are acid soil loving plants, it makes sense to plant other acid loving plants with them. These include Azaleas, Rhododendrons, Hydrangeas, and Pieris. Heuchera, Cerastium, and carpet roses are often used as groundcovers alongside. Collectively, these plants are grown so the flower colours complement each other in a soft and subtle manner without clashing. At the same time, the size of the plants is considered to get a layered garden with interesting texture. This is where the Heuchera, Cerastium, or carpet roses really add considerable value.
Whether you need assistance finding the plant you’re looking for or you simply want to know more about who we are and what we do, we invite you to get in touch with us today. A member of The Plant Company team will get back in touch as soon as possible.
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