Oranges are a popular fruit and a staple in most NZ diets. There is nothing better than picking fruit that you have grown and making your own, fresh juice. They also make an attractive shrub when managed correctly and feature prominently in modern landscape designs. The Plant Company has prepared this series of articles to help you achieve great success with your orange tree.
The most important part with growing an Orange tree starts with planting, and our article, How To Plant Oranges, provides sound advice on how to do this properly. So, let’s now assume your plant is growing well and you want to keep it that way!
Winter is the perfect time for mulching around your plants. Organic matter such as compost or sheep pellets should be spread liberally around the plants and then overlaid with mulch. The Plant Company has three very good options for mulch. The first is coco fibre matting which is made from the husks of coconuts. The second is Earth Mat which is made from recycled paper. Both of these break down to become part of the soil within two years. The third is black plastic matting which will last 20 years or more. Whichever mulch is used, The Plant Company recommends that stones, bark chip, or other similar products be spread over top for aesthetic purposes. The Plant Company does not recommend adding fertiliser during winter as this is better applied in spring so less is wasted. However, adding organic matter such as compost is quite okay.
Spring is the perfect time for fertilising Orange trees as they start to bounce into life. The Plant Company has fertilisers which have been specially blended for different plants and in this instance, our Citrus Fertiliser will give them the correct boost and keep them fed for 12-months. A suitable alternative is our organic fertiliser which will also keep them well fed but they will require a secondary application in autumn.
Summer is when the plants need regular watering, and this should be undertaken every second day on the hottest days. Plants that are establishing need particular attention as their root system will not have penetrated deep enough to secure consistent moisture yet.
Caring for Oranges in autumn is about keeping the plants healthy. Foliar feeding using a liquid fertiliser can be undertaken during spring, summer, and autumn if you have time but this is not essential if solid fertiliser and/or good amounts of organic matter have already been applied. If you think the plants need an extra boost or have some yellowing, however, a liquid fertiliser won’t hurt.
Plants should be checked for pest or disease issues during spring, summer, and autumn. If anything is looking unusual, refer to our articles under Orange Issues And Troubleshooting.
Caring for Oranges in autumn is all about weed control and keeping the plants healthy. Keeping the weeds down around the plant and removing poorly stems will help keep the plants tidy.
Foliar feeding using a liquid fertiliser can be undertaken if you have time but this is not essential if solid fertiliser and/or good amounts of organic matter have previously been applied. If you think the plants need an extra boost or have some yellowing, however, a liquid fertiliser application won’t hurt. A great benefit of foliar feeding is that it helps keep the leaves strong which will aid the plant immensely as it shoots new growth in spring. You can apply Citrus Fertiliser but this should only be done it if can be watered in well.
Finally, monitor for pests and diseases, and if anything is looking unusual, refer to our articles under Orange Issues And Troubleshooting.
Spring is the perfect time for fertilising and mulching around Orange trees as they start to bounce into life. The Plant Company has fertilisers which have been specially blended for different plants and in this instance, our Citrus Fertiliser will give them the correct boost and keep them fed for 12-months. A suitable alternative is our organic fertiliser which will also keep them well fed but they will require a secondary application in autumn.
Organic matter such as compost or sheep pellets should be spread liberally around the plants and then overlaid with a mulch (if not done already) during winter or spring. The Plant Company recommends an organic mulch is used as this breaks down over time to provide nutrients and improves the soil. The Plant Company has three very good options for mulch. The first is coco fibre matting which is made from the husks of coconuts. The second is Earth Mat which is made from recycled paper. Both of these break down to become part of the soil within two years. The third is black plastic matting which will last 20 years or more. Whichever mulch is used, The Plant Company recommends that stones, bark chip, or other similar products be spread over top for aesthetic purposes.
Foliar feeding using a liquid fertiliser can be undertaken if you have time but this is not essential if solid fertiliser and/or good amounts of organic matter have already been applied. If you think the plants need an extra boost or have some yellowing, however, a liquid fertiliser won’t hurt. If anything is looking unusual, refer to our articles under Orange Issues And Troubleshooting.
Summer is when Orange trees need regular watering, and this should be undertaken every second or third day on the hottest days. Plants that are establishing need particular attention as their root system will not have penetrated deep enough to secure consistent moisture yet.
Foliar feeding using a liquid fertiliser can be undertaken if you have time but this is not essential if solid fertiliser and/or good amounts of organic matter have previously been applied. If you think the plants need an extra boost or have some yellowing, however, a liquid fertiliser application won’t hurt. A great benefit of foliar feeding is that it helps keep the leaves strong and encourages more foliage as the nutrition is right where the plant needs it. Please note: The Plant Company does not recommend using solid fertilisers at this time of year unless plenty of water can be applied.
The other required activities for Oranges during summer are weed control and monitoring for pests and diseases. Keeping the weeds down around the plant will produce a better plant overall. If anything is looking unusual, refer to our articles under Orange Issues And Troubleshooting.
Caring for Oranges in winter is all about weed control and keeping the plants healthy. Keeping the weeds down around the plant and removing poorly stems will help keep the plants tidy.
Foliar feeding using a liquid fertiliser can be undertaken if you have time but this is not essential if solid fertiliser and/or good amounts of organic matter have previously been applied. If you think the plants need an extra boost or have some yellowing, however, a liquid fertiliser application won’t hurt. A great benefit of foliar feeding is that it helps keep the leaves strong which will aid the plant immensely as it shoots new growth in spring. You can apply Citrus Fertiliser but this should only be done it if can be watered in well and is best held off until spring.
Finally, monitor for pests and diseases, and if anything is looking unusual, refer to our articles under Orange Issues And Troubleshooting.
Oranges require feeding to keep them growing optimally. The Plant Company’s Citrus Fertiliser has been blended to give plants the boost they need and then sustained nutrition for the next 12 months. The Plant Company recommends the fertiliser is applied to the soil surface in spring just as the plants start to grow actively. More importantly, we advise that no fertiliser is placed in the hole at planting, but rather spread around the soil surface so it can wash through the roots as it releases. Our citrus fertiliser ensures the nutrients are retained around the roots rather than being lost through the soil profile to where the plant can’t reach it. This also applies to plants grown on sandy soils. The Plant Company’s Citrus Fertiliser is therefore very environmentally friendly and longer lasting than most other products in the market.
Foliar feeding using a liquid fertiliser can be undertaken if you have time but this is not essential if Citrus Fertiliser has been applied. If you think the plants need an extra boost or have some yellowing, however, a liquid fertiliser application won’t hurt. A great benefit of foliar feeding is that it helps keep the leaves strong and lush.
Oranges grown in containers require different fertiliser to those grown outdoors in soil. In this instance, the correct fertiliser to use is either container plant fertiliser or fertiliser tablets. Each of these will provide safe, sustained, and complete nutrition to the plant for the next 12-months. Using other types of fertilisers can be detrimental to the plant and may result in plant injury or death.
Foliar feeding using a liquid fertiliser can be undertaken if you have time but this is not essential if container plant fertiliser or fertiliser tablets have been used. If you think the plant needs an extra boost or has some yellowing, however, a liquid fertiliser application won’t hurt. A great benefit of foliar feeding is that it helps keep the leaves strong and lush as the nutrition is right where the plant needs it.
Oranges are showy plants that require feeding to keep them looking amazing. A lot of articles have all sorts of advice on this subject which often requires multiple applications, so you use more of their products. The Plant Company prefers to take a simpler and more environmentally responsible approach. We believe the best organic option is The Plant Company organic fertiliser which is applied in spring and again in autumn and will keep them well fed. You can safely apply generous amounts of this fertiliser without risk of injuring the plants. More details about this organic fertiliser are provided with the product.
The soil pH refers to how acid or alkaline the soil is. Oranges prefer a soil pH within the range of 5.5 to 6.8 which means they require an acidic soil. As the pH of the soil moves away from this optimum range, the nutrients the plant is taking up (or not taking up) through the roots changes. If the shift in pH is too far, this can result in deficiencies of some nutrients and toxic levels of others. In either case this can cause the plant to become sick or even die a slow death.
The best way to know whether the pH is correct for your plant is to do a test. The Plant Company has pH test kits available that are easy to use and only take a few minutes to get a result. Preferably this test should be completed before planting so any pH issues can be corrected without risking the plant. A pH less 5.5 should have sparing amounts of dolomite lime applied along with Citrus Fertiliser. A pH above 6.8 should have small amounts of soil acidifying fertiliser applied. In both instances the fertiliser should be thoroughly mixed into the soil before planting. A retest of the soil pH should be undertaken after four weeks, and small adjustments made again. If the pH is in the optimum range, just use Citrus Fertiliser thereafter.
The main pests of Oranges are scale insects. Less occasionally, aphids, mites, and mealy bugs can be present. They result in yellow leaves that often have a mottled appearance. Where such pests are present there will often be a black mould on some of the leaves and stems. This is a mould that feeds on the sugars released from the plant by these insects feeding. While the mould is unsightly, it does not hurt the plant and will dissipate with time. All these pests are easily controlled with a general insecticide. Please always read the label before using any agrichemical.
Citrus Tree Borer is a common pest that burrows holes through the stems, leaving tell-tale channels. Often sawdust, small holes, or excrement are signs of this pest. With severe infestations the plant is likely to wilt, and branches will snap easily through wind or when loaded with fruit. The easiest way to control this pest is to prune off infected branches and seal the cut with pruning paint that contains an insecticide.
Russet on oranges is usually caused by rub. That is, when fruit encounters stems or other fruit as they develop, that can cause minor damage that results in russet. The easiest fix is to install shelter, as wind is generally the root cause of branches and fruit moving around. Insect pests can also cause russet due to the damage inflicted as they feed. Controlling such issues with a general insecticide will normally prevent this cause of russet.
Black spots on fruit are usually caused by black spot fungus. This fungus thrives during wet periods, humid weather, or when there is little air movement through the canopy. It is easily controlled with a copper fungicide and should be coupled with pruning to ensure good air flow.
Leaf yellowing during winter in Orange trees is the result of a lack of magnesium. The colder weather restricts the uptake of this nutrient through the roots and results in the leaves developing yellow tones. The issue is easily fixed with a liquid feed that contains magnesium. After 2-3 applications the issue should be resolved. A lack of nitrogen will also cause similar symptoms, which again will be corrected with a liquid feed and citrus fertiliser.
Leaf yellowing can also result from Oranges being over-watered, poor drainage, or both. They will also develop yellow leaves if they have not been watered for some time, but this is usually coupled with leaves dropping. Other common causes are too much shade, or the plants have not been fed for several years. A liquid fertiliser can be used to correct issues quickly and should be supported with Citrus Fertiliser during spring if you think this is the cause.
Pests sucking on the leaves can cause leaves to yellow, but this is often mottled and varied across the plant. The article, Orange Tree Pests, discusses these.
Lack of fruit production on orange trees can be due to various factors, including insufficient sunlight, poor soil, or inadequate pollination. If the plants are stressed or weather conditions are unfavorable during the growing season, the plant will abort the flowers and fruit. Some articles you might find useful include: How Much Sunlight Do Oranges Need?, Best Soil For Oranges, Best Fertiliser For Oranges, and Do I Need Two Orange Trees To Produce Fruit? If none of these factors seem likely, it might be time to replace the tree.
The Plant Company has the best orange trees in NZ that are competitively priced, produce amazing fruit, and are of fantastic quality. Accompanying this, we have a suite of articles that covers everything you need to know about growing Oranges. Our goal is for you to grow a fantastic tree that rewards you with fruit. At the same time, we want to impress you with both our quality and service. Our impressive Google Rating shows we are good at what we do and take comfort in buying from the best in the industry.
Black mould on the leaves of Orange trees is caused by Sooty Mould Fungus. This fungus lives off the sugars released by feeding insects such as scale insects, aphids, mites, and mealy bugs. While the mould is unsightly, it does not hurt the plant and will dissipate with time, if the pests causing it are killed. All these pests are easily controlled with a general insecticide. Please always read the label before using any agrichemical.
When Orange trees are grown in wet soils or exposed to prolonged wet through over-watering, the disease, Phytophthora, can take hold. Phytophthora attacks the roots and causes the plant to eventually die. The tell-tale symptoms are yellowing of the leaves, wilting, blackening of the stems, and defoliation. This can happen over several months during any season and progressively gets worse. This is all resulting from the root system being progressively weakened by the pathogen. Gardeners will often mistakenly think the plant needs more water when it is wilting, even though the soil is already moist. Unfortunately, adding water only accelerates the problem, as prolonged wetness was generally the cause in the first place.
Root rot disease will often start to show several weeks after a prolonged rain event. It can also occur when plants are regularly over-watered. Therefore, good drainage is essential and sites where drainage is poor should be avoided.
Treatment for Phytophthora can be a hit and miss exercise as there are no silver bullets. However, if picked up early, The Plant Company has experienced some success using Transformer. Transformer does have fungicidal properties and when used as a soil drench 2-3 times, plants can bounce back. However, if the plant is too far gone, The Plant Company recommends removing the plant, and using Transformer as a soil drench before putting in a new plant. Of course, the drainage or watering issues will need to be addressed so the problem does not manifest again.
Oranges can root in just water but are more likely to rot. There might be the odd success, but The Plant Company says, “don’t waste your time!” Our article, How To Propagate Oranges will give you a lot better chance of success!
Orange trees can be grown from seed. However, the resulting tree may not produce fruit of good quality (or at all). It is therefore a high-risk proposition to think that growing a orange tree from seed will produce a good quality tree, especially when you must wait three years to find out! The Plant Company recommends that a grafted orange tree is purchased as this will guarantee quality fruit.
Oranges are propagated by grafting onto a rootstock. Given most gardeners don’t have access to these rootstocks, the next best option is by stem cuttings between autumn and mid-spring. A stem about 10 cm long is trimmed into a cutting using secateurs with a couple of leaves left at the top. The leaves are cut in half to reduce transpiration losses and prevent the cutting drying out. The base is cut just below a node, then dipped in rooting hormone. The cutting is then inserted into propagation growing media, and the tray of cuttings is placed under mist. Bottom heat is applied for the first four weeks while the cuttings root. A fungicide is generally applied every week with the cuttings usually ready for potting at week 10.
Oranges are very easy to grow, but you need to have the basics right. Choose a sunny spot that is sheltered and has free-draining soil. Prepare the soil by adding compost or sheep pellets. Feeding your plants in spring with Citrus Fertiliser will replenish nutrients and keep them fed for 12 months. They should also be watered regularly during dry periods to keep them flourishing. The Plant Company has produced a suite of articles that covers everything you need to know about growing Oranges and if you follow our advice, you will have the greatest chance of success.
Oranges can take a moderate frost once established, though very young plants should be protected until they are at least 30 cm tall. Frost Cloth is a good option for protecting vulnerable plants if you are worried. Be careful to harden off recently purchased plants if you intend to plant these during winter and frosts are likely. Do this by gradually exposing them to the cooler conditions over a 2-3 week period or until such time as you think that a frost won’t damage them. The Plant Company recommends delaying planting until spring if you are at all worried that new plants might get frosted. A good sized Orange tree planted in spring typically copes with frosts the following winter.
Soils rich in fertility and organic matter that are well-drained will produce amazing Orange trees. The soil should be well prepared with either compost or sheep pellets mixed in at planting or spread on the soil surface after planting. It is important that the soil being planted into won’t restrict root growth and for this reason, clay soils are not well suited to Oranges. Clay soils also tend to be very wet which will negatively impact the performance of the plant.
Feeding your Orange tree in spring with Citrus Fertiliser will replenish nutrients and keep them fed for 12 months. Liberal amounts of organic fertiliser can also be used. Do ensure that plants are watered regularly during dry periods to keep them flourishing.
Oranges can cope with coastal areas provided they are not covered in salt spray. Being constantly coated with sea spray can result in leaf burning and ultimate death of the plant. Planting on the opposite side of the house to the beach is generally fine. If the soil is near pure sand, this will become problematic both from a watering and nutritional perspective. Our articles, How To Water Oranges and Best Fertiliser For Oranges, provide useful advice on these subjects.
If the soil is too saline, this can also prove detrimental to the plants and result in them becoming stunted and not performing. If you elect to plant in this environment, The Plant Company recommends ensuring the soil is well prepared with organic matter such as compost and water regularly during dry periods.
Orange trees can be grown indoors if they are placed beside a window, so they receive a lot of natural light. They will require trimming to keep them contained and shapely. The Plant Company more commonly maintains oranges in a large pot at an entrance or around outdoor living areas. Some articles you might find interesting include: Best Fertiliser For Oranges Grown In A Container, How To Trim Oranges, What To Consider When Buying A Orange Tree, and Orange Issues And Troubleshooting.
The answer to this question depends on how much shade. In shaded conditions Oranges tend to become “stretched” as the branches extend to chase light, and fruit yield drops away. In full sun they tend to be more compact, denser, and have better yields. That said, Oranges will grow well with just 4-5 hours of direct sun during the day, or with large amounts of dappled light, but don’t expect much fruit. The Plant Company recommends Orange trees are only grown in full sun.
Orange trees do not grow well on heavy soils, including clay, and are likely to die a slow death. They often become infected with root rot disease in such environments. The article, Why Is My Orange Tree Dying? affords more information on this disease. You might find articles, How To Test If My Soil Is Poorly Drained and Fixing Poor Drainage On A Clay Soil useful.
Oranges look amazing when grown in pots and managed appropriately. Orange "Navel" is the best fruiting option. Increasingly, Blood Oranges such as Orange "Moro" and Orange "Blood Orange" are being used as something different. For a more ornamental plant, Orange "Seville" is a good option as it has smaller fruit.
Choose a pot that is no less than twice the size of what the Orange is currently growing in and that has plenty of drainage holes in the bottom. Fill the bottom of the pot to about 1/3 of the way up with potting mix. Do not use soil or compost when growing plants in a container and do not add fertiliser. The Plant Company potting mix has all the nutrients required to sustain the plant for the next 12 months.
Remove the plant from the container it is growing in by either pulling it free or by cutting the bag. We recommend cutting the bag or container, especially for larger grade plants, to minimise any chance of damaging the roots. If the roots have been growing in a circle or are all bound up you can tease them apart if you want but this is not essential. Similarly, you don’t need to remove any of the growing media. The Plant Company does not recommend cutting the roots, even if the plant is root-bound as this offers no benefit. This is explained in our article, Managing Rootbound Plants. Add more potting mix and firm this around the plant using gentle pressure, then water well. The plant should be watered 2-3 times a week during hot weather, and weekly or fortnightly during cooler periods.
The key to having an amazing Orange in a pot is to both keep it fed correctly (see article Best Fertiliser For Oranges Grown In A Pot) and not to over-water it. Over-watering is the most common reason Oranges fail.
Oranges owe their popularity to not just their tasty fruit, but also to their glossy and lush foliage. They are often maintained in a container as a topiary standard (i.e., a ball on a clean stem) or as a bushy shrub that is clipped regularly. More commonly, however, they are planted for fruit production and grown as a much larger plant. In this instance, planting several different citrus varieties as a grove is very common.
Occasionally The Plant Company will create an informal hedge from orange trees for clients. The hedge still bears fruit if the trimming is not too aggressive.
You do not need two varieties of orange to produce fruit. Oranges are self-fertile, meaning they pollinate themselves. That said, including another variety of orange will help with pollination and can produce an overall better yield from each variety. It is also a good way of extending the fruiting season.
The Plant Company has the best orange trees in NZ that are competitively priced, produce amazing fruit, and are of fantastic quality. Accompanying this, we have a suite of articles that covers everything you need to know about growing Oranges. Our goal is for you to grow a fantastic tree that rewards you with fruit. At the same time, we want to impress you with both our quality and service. Our impressive Google Rating shows we are good at what we do and take comfort in buying from the best in the industry.
There is nothing like growing and picking your own oranges from trees that you have planted and nurtured. The Plant Company has produced a suite of articles that covers everything you need to know about growing oranges. Our goal is for you to grow a fantastic tree that rewards you with fabulous fruit. At the same time, we have the best orange trees in NZ that are both competitively priced and of fantastic quality. Further, we strive to exceed our customers’ expectations with amazing service and our impressive Google Rating shows we are good at what we do!
Oranges are mature and ready for picking when they are bright orange all over. The Plant Company advises picking one and tasting it when you get to this point. They can have some green on one side, that is normal. It is worth noting that oranges don’t suddenly become ripe and then fall from the tree. Rather, they continue to become sweeter as they mature. Eventually they will fall themselves, and this usually about 5-6 weeks from the time they become mature.
There are two scenarios here. The first is to plant Oranges as a hedge, and the second is as standalone plants for fruit production. As a hedge they would generally be planted 60 cm apart, but this depends on how fast you want them to fill in. Our article, Growing An Orange Tree Hedge discusses this subject more fully.
The most common approach with Oranges is to plant them as standalone plants. While they can grow to 3 m tall and the same wide, they are normally kept at 2 m tall and the same wide to enable easier management. On commercial orchards they are normally planted 4-5 m apart in rows that are 6 m apart. Please Contact us if you are considering reasonable numbers of Orange trees and we can price accordingly.
Oranges are generally regarded as quick growing and should double in size each year until they reach maturity. Be sure to start with strong and healthy plants at the outset as a sickly plant can take a lot of time to recover. Our article, What To Consider When Buying A Orange Tree provides sound advice on this subject.
Small amounts of fruit are often produced on orange trees at one year of age. The Plant Company, however, recommends the fruit for the first two years are removed as they take a lot of energy away from the plant. By doing that, you’ll end up with a larger tree that produces more fruit at year three onwards, than if you left the fruit on. Full production is generally not achieved until year 6.
It is sometimes worth purchasing a large grade orange tree as those are typically three years old, have generally already started fruiting, and have been manicured to a nice form. This will save a lot of time waiting for a tree to grow!
Oranges require either full sun or large amounts of indirect light to perform well. If they are grown indoors, they need to be positioned beside a window where plants can be exposed to full sun for about 3-4 hours per day and have good amounts of indirect light for the rest of the day. If they are placed in shaded positions they will become “stretched” as the branches extend to chase light. At the same time, flowers and fruit will often fall prematurely, and fruit yield drops away. The more shade, the poorer the performance is the general rule.
Oranges typically reach 3 m tall and the same wide, though this obviously depends on the growing conditions and the rootstock it is grafted onto. The Plant Company has put a lot of effort into determining how big each plant will grow in an unrestricted growing environment. Far too often we see people planting a garden too densely and then having to spend a lot of time trimming or removing plants later. This is something we want our customers to avoid, and we therefore provide size information so the planning can be right from the start. Be sure to check out our Oranges and the detailed information that accompanies both this and our other plants.
Choose a full sun and the sheltered position for your Orange tree. It is very important that the soil has good drainage. The hole should be dug to at least 50-75% deeper and wider than the container the plant is currently growing in. The Plant Company recommends incorporating compost or sheep pellets into the soil to provide additional organic material, but this is not essential. Do not put fertiliser in the bottom of the hole, rather spread Citrus Fertiliser on the soil surface after planting, and preferably do this when the plant is actively growing in spring.
The Plant Company has produced a suite of articles to help you grow amazing Oranges. Some specific articles you might find useful include: How To Plant Oranges, How To Trim Oranges, Best Fertiliser For Oranges, When To Water Oranges, How To Mulch Around Oranges, and Orange Issues And Troubleshooting.
Producing oranges year-round generally requires two varieties to be planted. An early maturing variety such as Orange "Navelina" or Orange "Navel" is planted with a late flowering variety such as Orange "Harwood Late" or Orange "Valencia". This spreads the fruiting to cover most of the year.
The Plant Company has produced a suite of articles that covers everything you need to know about growing Oranges. Our goal is for you to grow a fantastic tree that rewards you with fabulous fruit. At the same time, we have the best orange trees in NZ that are both competitively priced and of fantastic quality. Further, we strive to exceed our customers’ expectations with amazing service. Our impressive Google Rating shows we are good at what we do!
Placing mulch around Orange trees helps keep the soil moist and significantly reduces weeds. The Plant Company recommends an organic mulch is used as this breaks down over time to provide nutrients and improves the soil. It is also better for the environment than the plastic-based alternatives. Whatever type of mulch is used, it needs to be free draining so the soil can “breathe” and allow water to penetrate quickly and easily. Heavy rates of lawn clippings are therefore not a good option as they hold too much moisture. The Plant Company has three very good options for mulch. The first is coco fibre matting which is made from the husks of coconuts. The second is Earth Mat which is made from recycled paper. Both break down to become part of the soil within two years. The third is black plastic matting which will last 20 years or more. Whichever mulch is used, The Plant Company recommends stones, bark chip, or other similar products be spread over top for aesthetic purposes.
Bark chips or shredded bark alone makes for an effective mulch around Orange trees provided it is laid thick. A minimum of 6 cm is required to effectively suppress weeds. However, over time this mulch will decompose, so it will need to be topped up every year to continue being effective.
Compost is not considered an effective mulch as weeds germinate easily and it is only short lasting. It is, however, a very good method of adding organic matter to the soil and should be applied before the mulch is put down.
Choose a full sun position with good drainage for your Orange tree. The hole should be dug to at least 50-75% deeper and wider than the container the plant is currently growing in. A planting spade makes the hole digging a lot easier. The Plant Company recommends incorporating compost or sheep pellets into the soil to provide additional organic material, but this is not essential. Do not put fertiliser in the bottom of the hole, rather spread that on the soil surface after planting, and preferably do this when the plant is actively growing in spring.
Remove the plant from the container it is growing in by either pulling it free or by cutting the bag. We recommend cutting the bag or container, especially for larger grade plants, to minimise any chance of damaging the roots. If the roots have been growing in a circle or are all bound up you can tease them apart if you want but this is not essential. Similarly, you don’t need to remove any of the growing media. The Plant Company does not recommend cutting the roots, even if the plant is root-bound as this offers no benefit. This is explained in our article, Managing Rootbound Plants.
Now place the plant in the hole and make sure it is level with the soil surface before filling in around it. If it is above the soil surface, dig more out. If it is below, put in more soil and retest the level. Once the plant is set level with the soil surface, add more soil gradually and firm it around the plant using gentle pressure as you go. Scatter Citrus Fertiliser across the soil surface after planting and the give the plant a good watering.
The Plant Company has the best orange trees in NZ that are both competitively priced and of fantastic quality. Accompanying this, we have a suite of articles that covers everything you need to know about growing Oranges. Our goal is for you to achieve awesome results and to impress you with both our quality and service. Our impressive Google Rating shows we are good at what we do!
There is nothing like growing and picking your own oranges. The Plant Company has the best orange trees in NZ that are both competitively priced and of fantastic quality. Accompanying this, we have a suite of articles that covers everything you need to know about growing Oranges. Our goal is for you to achieve awesome results and to impress you with both our quality and service. Our impressive Google Rating shows we are good at what we do!
A wide range of plants can be grown with Oranges. The Plant Company often recommends using other plant colours and textures to add variety and interest. Such plants include Lomandra, Astelia, flaxes, Rosemary, Creeping Thyme, and Mondo Grasses. Muehlenbeckia axillaris is a good ground covering option that can also be walked on without issue.
Grafted orange trees are recommended by The Plant Company as they confer benefits from the rootstock to the variety being grown. The benefits can be wide, but mostly centre around managing the vigour, fruiting ability, and disease susceptibility. For example, a dwarfing citrus rootstock (Flying Dragon) keeps the tree about 30% smaller than the more common rootstock. Equally, trees on rootstocks tend to have better flowering and more even fruiting. Perhaps, the most important aspect of a grafted tree is the tolerance to a wider array of soil conditions and increased disease tolerance. Non-grafted trees have been found to succumb to root rot earlier than grafted trees on heavier soils. All this said, a non-grafted tree will generally still grow and fruit fine, but it can be a riskier proposition.
Removing the immature fruit from young orange trees is a great way to get them to grow faster. The Plant Company does this on younger trees to not only push them along but also to reduce the chances of branches breaking with the fruit load. We recommend removing the fruit until the trees are two years old.
The Plant Company has produced a suite of articles that covers everything you need to know about growing Oranges. Our goal is for you to grow a fantastic tree that rewards you with fabulous fruit. At the same time, we have the best orange trees in NZ that are both competitively priced and of fantastic quality. Further, we strive to exceed our customers’ expectations with amazing service. Our impressive Google Rating shows we are good at what we do!
"Navel" Oranges are certainly the most popular of the orange varieties, however, is this one the best? The answer to this question is how you like your orange! The Plant Company considers the best orange available in NZ to be Orange "Best Seedless". This one has a relatively thin skin and is of fantastic quality. The next best is Orange "Powell Navel". However, these aren’t going to give you fruit in autumn. Therefore, Orange "Harwood Late" is often used to fill this gap.
The Plant Company has produced a suite of articles that covers everything you need to know about growing Oranges. Our goal is for you to grow a fantastic tree that rewards you with fabulous fruit. At the same time, we have the best orange trees in NZ that are both competitively priced and of fantastic quality. Further, we strive to exceed our customers’ expectations with amazing service. Our impressive Google Rating shows we are good at what we do!
Only potting mix should be used when Orange trees are grown in a container. Often people will try and cut corners and use soil or mixes that contain both soil and potting mix with poor results. The same applies to when plants are potted up with compost as it holds too much moisture. Soil also contains weeds and tends to become compacted in a container, hence why it is not used in this manner. The Plant Company has nursery grade potting media which is pre-loaded with the correct amounts of fertiliser and micro-nutrients to keep the plant sustained with nutrition and actively growing for the next 12-months. After 12-months, simply add a couple fertiliser tablets to keep the plant fed for the next 12-months.
The main fruiting seasons for Oranges are spring and autumn. However, healthy plants can sometime hold and produce varying levels of fruit through the entire year. Also, you can leave fruit on the tree rather than picking it all once it turns orange to continue fruiting. Not only does this reduce the chances of biennial bearing, but it also keeps you in fruit for longer. The fruit simply get sweeter, but you will need to pick them before they either rot or fall. Another trick to extending the season is to plant a second variety that matures at a different time to one you are planting.
The Plant Company has produced a suite of articles that covers everything you need to know about growing Oranges. Our goal is for you to grow a fantastic tree that rewards you with fabulous fruit. At the same time, we have the best orange trees in NZ that are both competitively priced and of fantastic quality. Further, we strive to exceed our customers’ expectations with amazing service. Our impressive Google Rating shows we are good at what we do!
Oranges are best planted any time from mid-autumn until late spring. During this time, they can cope with the stresses associated with planting (root damage mainly) more easily than if they have to also cope with heat and moisture stress as well. They can be planted in summer provided they are well-watered and the roots have plenty of growing media attached when planted. If watering is a challenge, The Plant Company advises planting any time from late-autumn through until early-spring. Make sure you have a good planting spade to make this job a lot easier.
The Plant Company has produced a suite of articles to help you grow amazing Orange trees. We invite you to browse these at your leisure.
Orange trees will grow well throughout NZ provided they are not in heavy frost areas. The Plant Company recommends they are protected from moderate frosts until they are at least 30 cm tall.
The most prominent regions for growing oranges are Gisborne, Northland, Hawkes Bay, and Nelson. These make up the bulk of the commercial plantings.
A full sun position with good drainage and shelter is essential for getting the best results with Oranges. In shaded conditions they tend to become “stretched” as the branches extend to chase light, and fruit yield drops away. In full sun the trees tend to be more compact, with both better flowering and yield. The planting position should also be sheltered which will help with establishment, the overall shape of the tree, fruiting, and fruit quality.
Sometimes you just don’t want to wait for a plant to grow, and you want the instant display now. The Plant Company has large grade orange trees available, and often has even larger grades available that are not listed for sale on our website. Please contact us and our amazing team will let you know options and pricing for delivery to your desired location.
A cheap Orange plant usually comes in a very small pot and has both small foliage and small roots, and likely hasn’t been grafted. Our article, Should I Buy A Grafted Orange? sheds more light on that aspect.
The small plant can be appealing when you are on a budget, however, think of such plants like babies. They only have a small root system, so they need careful attention for watering. They are also more vulnerable to disease such as Phytophthora, and our article, Why Is My Orange Dying?, explains how devasting this disease can be. The Plant Company therefore recommends you only buy plants in a 3.5L pot (preferably bigger) to have the greatest chance of success, even if you are on a budget. Any savings by buying small are lost when they die, and you replace them! Moreover, the plants need to be “chunky”, have a strong root system, and show no signs of disease. Be sure to check out our Oranges so you are buying the best plants at a competitive price.
Buying quality plants can be a challenge at times. However, The Plant Company makes this job easy by offering high quality Orange Trees. We appreciate that buying online is somewhat of a leap of faith given you are putting your trust in us. Therefore, we only ship plants that we would happily buy and plant ourselves. We propagate and nurture plants ready for their new home and strive to exceed our customers’ expectations. Our impressive Google Rating shows we are good at what we do!
The Plant Company has a large-scale production nursery and produces large numbers of Oranges. If you are after bulk lots of plants, please be sure to contact us for pricing and availability. Our talented staff can not only manage all aspects of getting the plants to you, but any other plant-related enquiries you may have. Our impressive Google Rating shows we are good at what we do!
The Plant Company has fantastic stock of high quality Orange trees. We appreciate that buying online is somewhat of a leap of faith, given you are putting your trust in us. Please rest assured that we only ship plants that we would happily buy and plant ourselves. Trust in The Plant Company to supply your Orange needs and allow us to impress you both with our quality and service. Our impressive Google Rating shows we are good at what we do!
Oranges can be used to make amazing hedges with the advantage of fruit production. Moreover, they can be either formal (i.e., trimmed) or informal (not trimmed). To create an outstanding formal hedge The Plant Company recommends spacing them 60 cm apart. The faster you want the hedge to fill in, the closer they should be planted is the general rule. With this planting regime they will close in quickly and push each other upwards as they compete for light. The result is a fabulous hedge every time.
You can go out to 80 cm if the budget is tight but that will often result in a gap at the bottom between plants which is hard to fill. The gap results from the natural vase shape with which these plants grow. In this situation opt for smaller grade sizes and plant more of them rather than going with bigger plants as this will make the money go further and produce a better result in the longer term.
If 25L grades (or bigger) are purchased which are 1m tall and lush, you can space these 1.2 m apart without issue. These grades have generally been manicured to ensure they are bushy to the base and will therefore branch and fill in more easily.
For informal hedges, the plants would normally be spaced 1.2-1.5 m apart. A wider spacing allows for the natural, rounded shape of the tree to prevail. The hedge is then just lightly trimmed 1-2 times per year.
Oranges will sprout when cut right back, even up to 10 cm above ground level! However, this relies on the plant having heathy shoots at the outset. This activity is best undertaken during spring or summer using secateurs. Please note: Oranges grown in shade environments may struggle to re-establish when cut back severely. The Plant Company does not recommend cutting plants any lower than 20 cm above ground level to ensure a better chance of success with this procedure. We also recommend that any such cutting is made well above the graft, otherwise it will be just the rootstock that grows.
Oranges are generally only trimmed to excess branches or to thin out the branches. Trees grown commercially are trimmed to “open up” the trees. In other words, when the pruning is finished you can loosely see through the tree. That allows air to flow through freely and the fruit to be easily picked. Most importantly, it helps keep the trees smaller overall and reduces the chances of biennial bearing.
Pruning is best done during late spring or summer when plants are in active growth. You can be as gentle or aggressive as you like as they will sprout again from cut stumps. Oranges are very forgiving plants and even if you get the trimming wrong, they will generally recover! Light trimming to shape the plant can be done at any time.
Oranges can be trimmed at any time of the year, though summer is the time recommended by The Plant Company for any aggressive cutting back. The plants will sprout new shoots just below the cut, and at this time of year they can produce new growth quickly. Light trimming to remove unsightly foliage can occur at any time of year.
Oranges are not tolerant of drought. They can handle short periods of dry, but they do require consistent soil moisture to survive. If they are to dry out, plants will wilt, and defoliation and leaf browning will occur soon after. They may or may not survive with rewatering.
Oranges require good levels of soil moisture to stay fresh and keep growing actively even though they can tolerate dry periods. They require watering both during establishment and during those dry periods to keep growing and producing fruit. The Plant Company recommends a generous watering every third day during summer, or every fifth day if the soil is a bit heavier. If plants start to wilt or defoliate, you need to water immediately. The Plant Company advises watering in the morning or in the evening for water conservation purposes.
During dry periods, Oranges stop growing and may even shed their leaves to preserve themselves. This is clearly not desirable if you are still wanting them to grow. They will start growing again once rain or water is provided, and assuming they have not been allowed to desiccate.
If your Orange is being grown in a pot, watering three times a week during summer and once every week during winter is the general rule. This will depend on how hot the growing environment is and the size of the plant. The good thing about Oranges is that you generally won’t kill them with under-watering. Over-watering, on the other hand, is the most common cause of plant death.
Whether you need assistance finding the plant you’re looking for or you simply want to know more about who we are and what we do, we invite you to get in touch with us today. A member of The Plant Company team will get back in touch as soon as possible.
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